Boulder County Farmers Markets: Bring on the tart rhubarb

In season now: The arrival of May brings a bounty of spring vegetables, as well as the opening of the Wednesday Boulder Farmers Market (4-8 tonight). This week at the market, you’ll discover rhubarb, overwintered spinach, pea shoots, carrots, arugula, tulips, radishes, spicy greens, scallions, Egyptian walking onions, kale, lettuce, mint, basil, hanging baskets and garden starts.

Lots of this, please: Celery? No, chard. Wait, it’s rhubarb. One of the most underrated spring vegetables at the market, I love to sing the praises of rhubarb (mostly through rhubarb compote). With a flavor as striking as its coloring and a texture as interesting as its name, this vegetable is a worthy challenge in the kitchen.

The farmer says: The rhubarb plants at Morton’s Organic Orchards have a long family history, stemming from Dave Morton’s grandmother in the ’50s.

“She lived in Denver, and I used to take the bus over there to cut her grass and tend her garden every week. I was 7 or 8 years old,” Morton says.

He cut his grandmother’s original rhubarb plant in thirds and replanted one piece at his home in Arvada. After 10 years, he and his wife, Mary, moved to Palisade, where they live now, and replanted that same rhubarb. When you pick up your rhubarb from Brennon Ancell — Morton’s grandson — at the market, a sixth-generation farmer will be handing you rhubarb from the same plant that his great-great-grandmother tended.

Note to fruit lovers: While we’re talking about Morton’s Organic Orchards, I know you are already thinking of Palisades summer fruit. According to our latest update from the Mortons, you can expect semi-cling peaches the first week of June, cherries mid-June and apricots the first weekend of July.

How to prepare: Prepare Chef Alberto Sabbadini’s Honey Rhubarb Compote with Yogurt Panna Cotta (recipe below), and cooking with the vibrant scents of rhubarb, lemon, vanilla and mint will be almost as enjoyable as the finished product. Be sure to make extra compote. You’ll want to have enough on hand to savor with yogurt, pancakes, pork chops, toast and yes, vanilla bean ice cream, over the next week.

Goes with: The strong tartness of rhubarb is known for blending beautifully with sweet flavors such as strawberries and raspberries. Also experiment with mint, ginger and honey.

How to store it: Keep in a closed bag in your vegetable drawer in the fridge, unwashed, for up to one week. Wash before preparing.

Good to know: This list represents a general overview of the week’s harvest, not every item that is being produced locally. Some farms do not grow or have ready some items on the list.

Honey Rhubarb Compote with Yogurt Panna Cotta

For the panna cotta:

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup plain whole milk yogurt (I recommend Siggi’s Icelandic-style yogurt)

1/2 cup sugar

Zest of 1/2 lemon

3 gelatin sheets (soaked in very cold water for half an hour, then gently squeezed dry)

1/2 vanilla bean split open

Mint, for garnish

For the rhubarb compote:

2 pounds rhubarb stalks

1/2 cup raw wildflower honey

peel of 1/2 lemon

Directions: For the panna cotta: Bring the cream, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla bean to a simmer — do not let it boil. Remove from heat and add the softened gelatin sheets. Stir them into the cream, then set aside and let cool to room temperature. Strain and remove vanilla bean and add the yogurt. Pour into clear parfait-style glasses or jars, cover and refrigerate at least 5 hours.

For the rhubarb compote: Rinse rhubarb stalks and cut into 1-inch pieces. Combine the rhubarb, lemon peel and honey in a small saucepan and slowly simmer for 15-20 minutes. When rhubarb starts to boil, skim off the pink foam. Remove compote from heat and cool to room temperature. Spoon rhubarb compote over chilled panna cotta and garnish with a mint leaf. Buon Appetito!

Serves 8.

Source: Chef Alberto Sabbadini, Boulder Butchery Guild. albertosabbadini.com andboulderbutcheryguild.com